Poso Moreno

“Keep this beach clean. This sea is for everyone. Care for it. We are already living, but the vast majority of people have not even been born yet.”




We put into a little cove, Pozo Moreno (dark well), after a morning of clear skies, calm seas and northwest winds that filled our sails beautifully. We rowed our dinghy in, past a reef lined with pelicans on parade review and onto a shingled shore. Two fishermen were there, working on the motor for their panga (a small, open fishing boat common on the Sea). We asked about places to take a walk. One directed us south, “The road doesn’t go through, you’ll have to come back the same way, but it’s a good walk.”

The road undulated over the hills, graded at some point, but steep enough in spots to be a challenge to any vehicle. The small boulders and scraped rock faces on the inclines would prevent all but those with high suspension and four-wheel drive from getting over. On foot, it was no problem and we had spectacular views of the Sea of Cortez spread out before us, rugged coves below; dusty, cactus-dotted slopes and stark, craggy peaks behind. We passed middens of murex shells. A covey of quail scurried across our path then erupted in a burst of small thunder before resettling in the brush. Far below, just at tide’s edge, the remains of a 60-foot beached whale gave evidence of the Sea’s majestic cycle of life and death.

Bahia San Pedro

We sailed north of Bahia Algodones, enjoying 10 to 15 knot winds from the NNW. Four hours later, we tucked into the little cove of San Pedro, anchoring just inside a shrimp-fishing boat, between the shrimper and shore. It was our first time in Bahia San Pedro, and we had heard stories of insecure holding and anchors dragging. So when the weather forecast said there would be 25+ knot NNW winds during the night, we were on alert.

There was a full moon and it was easy to see the rock wall just to our west, looming very near (it definitely looked nearer at 3:00 AM than it had been at midnight! Do you realize how much BIGGER rock walls look under a full moon than in the light of day!?)

Marv set the anchor alarm to go off if we strayed more than about 200 feet from where we first anchored. With the wind and the boat action, the bridle (a rope attachment that takes pressure off the anchor chain) came loose and we had to let out another 20 feet of chain as we readjusted it. The alarm went off shortly after that, but the wind had shifted to the east and we were now stretched out on our anchor chain in the opposite direction from our original position. We clearly were not dragging anchor, but the rocks WERE closer (our swing took us closer to them) and it was still a bit nerve-wracking.

Bahia Algodones

The beach in Bahia Algodones (Cotton Bay) is named for Catch-22, the 1970 movie based on Joseph Heller’s book of the same title, which was filmed here. Remnants of the structures on the set can be found just off the highway north of Marina Real.


There can be a good bit of surf on Catch-22 Beach and it is easy to get soaked through when coming into shore in the dinghy. That may be why they named the palapa here "The Soggy Peso"?

Odyssey is back in the water

So, we are back in the water and getting set to leave the marina at San Carlos, Sonora. It has been a wonderful summer, visiting friends and family in San Francisco, San Diego, Wisconsin, and Portland. And, of course, Beijing for the Olympics with Philip. Malcolm, Liz, Miles, Marv and Ardy all joined him for the fun.

The staff at Marina Seca San Carlos is efficient, careful, and considerate. Like large beetles, the equipment scurries around the yard from 8:00 AM until 4:00 PM, moving small boats and large; into the work-yard, out to the highway and into the water; out of the water, dripping wet they negotiate the rig with its load down the kilometer or so to dry storage. It is a fascinating operation to watch, especially as the mast cants and sways with the movement.

There is not much to provision with here in San Carlos, so we have gone into Guaymas and shopped at Soriana’s. Still, we will have to wait until we go back to Portland to stock up on walnuts, almonds, and cashews. Fresh fruits and vegetables are hard to find, too, in a desert environment they are largely imported. So we cherish the fresh tomatoes and rich avocadoes.

The Great Wall

Beijing is an amazing, huge, busy, active, changing, evolving maze of people, places, history and growing future. The Olympics were hosted with energy and success. We were lucky to be guests of Liz's friends...comfortable and relaxed...and had a chance to travel to Samatai to walk the Great Wall. Our taxi driver took us to his brother's home nearby where we shared several cups of tea and were given some of the largess from their garden...like people everywhere, the Chinese we met are open and generous, friendly and welcoming. I think having the cutest baby in the world along does help break a great deal of ice!

Beijing

Across the sea

It has been a long time since we "blogged." And we apologize for not keeping things up-to-date.

We are currently in Beijing, China, having arrived on the 13th of August, to watch the Olympic Games...especially our son, Philip, in the 50 kilometer racewalk. For some very interesting reading check out his blogspot: Olympicwalk.blogspot.com


Philip walked yesterday morning (the 22nd) and did very well...he finished 39th out of a field of 62 starters, in a time of 4:08:32. It wasn't his best time ever, but about what he expected and hoped to do. And he impressed everyone with his consistent consistency! His 2 kilometer laps were 9:54, 9:56, 9:58, 9:54, 9:54, 10:00, 10:02, 9:55...etc. It was a hot morning, temperatures in the high 80's-low 90's, but it had rained well the day before and the humidity was relatively low (30%) and there was a slight breeze, so the heat did not do him in. Pollution was also not a factor, since it had rained and cleared the air well. In fact, we have had almost all "blue sky days" since we arrived in Beijing.

We can only hope that the Chinese will insist on keeping the air this clean after the Olympics are over. There is likely to be pressure to that effect, but how to do so is another question...so many cars! And Beijing is an IMMENSE city! We are overwhelmed by its size and all the development that is going on here.

We have been doing some touristy things...our other son, Malcolm, and I went to the Badaling Great Wall this week. This is a close-to-Beijing tourist site, and it was crowded with (mostly) Chinese tourists, but still an incredible experience. We hiked a couple of kilometers, climbing stairs that were >60 degrees incline. I still have sore quadriceps as testament to my efforts. Later this week, Philip, Liz (Philip's wife), Miles (number 1 grandson), Marv, and I plan to go to another Great Wall area and hike about 10 kilometers.

Our time here has gone by fast. Having a baby in the group changes the dynamics a lot. We get late starts. Miles is usually up by 6:00AM, then ready for a nap about 8:30, so we often don't get out of the house until 10:30 or so...if we have an event we want to go to earlier, he comes along, toted in the back-pack...sometimes he falls asleep, sometimes not. Even though seriously sleep-deprived, he has been an incredible traveler, though last night he truly "lost it." A melt-down of major proportions, he cried and howled and berated us in true baby-fashion...why wouldn't we let him sleep???!!! Malcolm, Philip, Marv, and I left Liz with him and went off to the New Balance Hospitality House. Liz says he fell asleep 5 minutes after we left...and slept for 12 hours. Good little boy!

Another dynamic is that he is a blonde, grey-eyed, American infant. Can you image what the Chinese think of him? One of the hundreds of people who went "ga-ga" over him, said "He draws the wind to him"...meaning that he attracts much attention. Chinese, though a difficult language to master and somewhat "harsh" sounding in its articulation, has a poetic quality in its meaning. We are pleased that Liz speaks it well, since it would be so hard to get around without it. And her being able to communicate with others makes our encounters much more meaningful. Otherwise we feel like idiots.

Truly.

Well...it is getting late. We are at the Hometown Hopefuls Hospitality House, using their computers and enjoying their wine...but it is time to head home. Malcolm left today (he starts work on Monday) and Philip will move out of the Olympic Village and in with us on Monday. We are staying in an apartment that belongs to a friend/former coworker of Liz's...

Life is good.

Take care everyone...our love to all of you. We will write more when we get back to the States later in the month.