Heat radiates up from the trail, or the semblance of a trail. On one side of the ridge, we scramble up through cacti, palo verde, and volcanic rocks, looking for the path of least resistance. On the other side, coming down, someone has dribbled white paint, a spot here, a long line there, a modern hieroglyphic on the side of a stark black rock, zig-zagging us through the bush as the vultures and frigate birds ride the thermal waves above.
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